Pacuare Lodge

Roberto Fernández grew up in Turrialba and ran rafting trips on the Pacuare before he built a lodge on its bank, and the arrival has hardly changed since. A minibus collects guests from a handful of San José hotels at six, stops in the hills for a farm breakfast, and by late morning they are in a raft with a guide, running class three and four rapids through a gorge of hanging forest for an hour or two until the lodge appears on the right bank. Bags come by land and are waiting in the suite. Anyone who would rather not paddle rides in by 4x4 and gondola from the operations centre at Siquirres.

There are twenty suites and villas, all detached, built from timber and thatch and open to the forest. Garden and River View Suites sit near the water, the Linda Vista Villas climb the slope with a private dipping pool each, and the Canopy Villa, reached over a hanging bridge, is the honeymoon choice. Power comes from micro turbines in the stream and a bank of solar panels, so hair dryers stay at home. The kitchen at Nairi Awari cooks from an organic garden, and the Jawa Jüu spa borrows from Cabécar healing traditions.

The lodge protects roughly 840 acres of primary forest, has supported jaguar camera research with the National University since 2009, and walks to a Cabécar community are part of the stay. Meals and eight activities are included, which changes the arithmetic of a night here.