Lake Como

Lake Como's hotel tradition is older than most of Europe's. The grand houses on the western shore between Cernobbio and Tremezzo began as aristocratic villas and still behave like them, with gardens running to the water, private landing stages and a formality that has softened rather than vanished. The last decade has added design hotels in converted silk mills and lakeside villas of ten to twenty rooms, some adults only. The advantages here are the view above all, then lake facing pools, boat transfers instead of the shore road, and dogs welcome in more houses than the reputation suggests.

The lake is a spring and early autumn destination. April brings the gardens, late September the calmest water and the clearest light on the mountains. August is busy and thundery. Regulars avoid the car, arrive at Como by train and let the hotel launch do the rest, staying mid lake around Bellagio, Varenna or Menaggio, not the southern end.