Al Maha, a Luxury Collection Desert Resort & Spa, Dubai

Al Maha opened in 1999, when a luxury resort in the Dubai desert was still a new idea, and in 2002 the land around it was declared the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve. That order of events still shapes the place. The 42 suites are pitched like Bedouin tents in canvas and timber, each with a private pool on its deck, and the reserve is large enough that the only movement in view is usually an oryx or a gazelle picking its way across the dune behind your pool.

The daily rhythm is set by the field guides rather than the concierge. Two activities per person are included each night, and the ones worth rising for are the sunrise falconry display and the wildlife drive at dusk, when the sand turns from white to copper. Camel treks, archery, horse riding and guided walks are also on the list, though once the heat builds most guests retreat to their deck. Al Diwaan serves dinner with a view of the watering hole; regulars ask for a table on the terrace or have the meal carried out to a dune.

This is not a resort for small children, and it is not a place to come for Dubai itself, even though the city is an hour away. It suits people who want silence, wildlife and a pool that is theirs alone.