Portugal

Portugal built its reputation on the pousada, a network of castles, convents and manor houses turned into hotels, and the idea has since spread well beyond it. Today the most interesting addresses are private: quintas in the Douro with their own vineyards, design hotels in Lisbon's tiled townhouses, farmhouses in the Alentejo where the loudest sound at night is a cork oak creaking. The Algarve carries the family resorts and most of the golf, while Comporta and the Costa Vicentina take the guests who want sand without crowds.

Go in May, June or late September, when the Atlantic has warmed a little and the terraces are still open. Regulars skip the seafront in favour of a room one street back, where the wind drops and the beach is still two minutes away. They also take the train: Lisbon to Porto is under three hours, and the good hotels sit within reach of both stations.