Casa Velha do Palheiro

The first Conde de Carvalhal created the Palheiro estate in 1801 and built his hunting lodge here in 1804, in the hills east of Funchal. John Burden Blandy bought the land and buildings in 1885, and his family, a name better known on bottles of Madeira, has shaped the estate ever since. The old house was restored and opened as a hotel in 1997, with a garden wing built that year and a golf wing in 1999. There are 38 rooms and suites in all; the three suites in the main house are named after Carvalhal, Blandy and King Carlos of Portugal, who stayed here in 1901.

Palheiro Golf, an 18 hole, par 72 course by Cabell B. Robinson, lies right beside the hotel at almost 500 metres, laid out through maritime pines and subtropical planting with views over the Atlantic and down to Funchal. Guests have privileged access to the course, and the Vista Balancal restaurant at the clubhouse looks out over the bay.

Days here move slowly. The Palheiro Gardens and their Tea House are reached directly from the hotel grounds, levada paths lead into the hills above, and the Palheiro Spa has a heated indoor pool with jacuzzi beds and four treatment rooms. Oxalis, recommended by the Michelin Guide, cooks with produce from island farmers and fishermen under chef Gonçalo Bita Bota, and outside the only sound you are likely to hear is birdsong.